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Since even I had a hard time locating where I put this post...I thought I would repost under an easy to find heading in case anyone was interested. I have been using this for a week and I am liking it. I did have to scale back on the vitamin C at first... increased acidity with the lactic made my skin a bit pink on the first few days. Especially with retin a use at night.
This time I used CeraVe as the base and used:
Lactic acid 12%
DMAE Bitartrate 8% (to make 3% DMAE in cream)
Then adding around 10% vitamin C daily.
I'm making a small batch 1oz and not using preservatives. I have been reading in places that resveratrol has stability issues (some places say yes and some no) so to be on the safe side I won't make more than I can use in two weeks. I did finally ask on the SAS board and Hannah said it is fairly stable for the short term...two weeks should be fine...probably longer. She says everything oxidizes...it's just the rate that we are worried about. I have seen 'stabilized' versions of resveratrol creams selling for $250...she agrees that a marketing gimmick to justify the price is most likely the explanation.
Anyhow, I like to post my formulations for anyone who is interested, and as a start to dialogue. So here we are!
Editing to add: For me the additon of 12% lactic plus the vitamin c is too much. Instead of stinging for a few seconds...it goes many minutes the more I use it. I assume this is because I am concomitantly using retin a. My dad loves the 12% lactic and is using it twice a day with no problems or excessive stinging. So I am tapering back to an 8% lactic, but leaving the original recipe.
Last edited by kylesmom9 on Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:46 am, edited 2 times in total.
Most def, for some reason this can be addictive. Terri has saved me so much money, that I didn't' know I needed to spend;-)))) It's a great hobby! It's nice to be able to share with others.
Off topic, science has NEVER been an interest of mine, so I usually didn't do to well, IE, I may have been able to pass through third grade, but with the knowledge she has given on skin care it's , increased my interest all the way around.
It would be awesome if most of her recipes could be posted, with a breakdown for us, that are mathematically challenged;-)
I really like the glucosamine, resveratrol, and niacinimide. It seems to me they have some science behind them along with the Vitamin C. I also add dermagen, green tea, some B5 and white willow ( I am extremely oily and it helps). Sometimes, throw in some cerimides as well. I recently purchased zinc PCA (also for us oily folks I believe) along with some soy isoflavones and a mitochondrial booster thingy. I am such a junky!!!!
I could be wrong, but I believe this stuff is really working! I talked to a child at the gym (just joking - she's about 30) who said "what are you doing?" there are no lines on your face!" She had just come out of the tanning bed and I told her she needed to start right there!
If you mix 88% lactic (that is typically what you find for purchase) with CeraVe in the below amounts you will get a 12% lactic lotion with a pH around 3 to 4. I tried it on my arm and there was no stinging...it has been over an hour and no issues...no pink nothing. (pH 2.5 + is safe for a leave on product, though one should do a patch test if they have sensitive skin.)
So this is a true 12% solution not 12% of an 88%...in other words I did the math.
2.5 tsp 88% lactic acid
1/4 cup + 2 tsp of CeraVe or preferred base lotion
3 big drops germaben or 6 small ones (if you have one of those 1 ml droppers it is 6)
If you don't have the germaben or other suitable preservative, then just make small amounts and use quickly (and don't stick your fingers in the jar!) Recipe can be doubled and possibly tripled but don't go further than that...since I rounded some numbers the percents could get off by multiplying TOO much.
I used a mixing boat, but a small dish with a stirring stick should work fine to make sure it is mixed well before putting it into a container.
I am using DMAE bitartrate, which contains 37% DMAE. Some boards discuss the use of the bitartrate vs. amine forms. I found chemical information on the disassociation of DMAE in aqueous solution from any carrier, so I believe either form is fine. The amine form is highly alkaline (like a ph 10) so it is more difficult to work with. The serums/creams that have been studied use a 3% DMAE. This means roughly 8% is needed of the DMAE bitartrate to achieve a 3% DMAE serum/cream.
I used 1% hyaluronic acid serum as the base and 0.05% germaben as the preservative.
Terri - I get my dermagen from SAS. You can read about it there. I put it in everything.
I read with interest some earlier comments about resveratrol and that it could inhibit collagen production. I thought it was supposed to be a powerful antioxidant? It's all so confusing.
And by the way, I got the ovestrin (estriol cream not sure I'm spelling right), and have been using in the a.m. under my eye cream I make myself. I am beginning to see results I believe. So thanks to you and D for the tip on that!
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